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Del Posto

September 28, 2010 Leave a comment

Spaghetti with Dungeness crab, sliced jalapeño, and minced scallion

[Josh Haner, The New York Times]

You may already have seen Sam Sifton’s review in tomorrow’s NYT of the restaurant Del Posto, but if not, be sure to check it out. Sifton gives the restaurant four stars, his first four-star review since taking over from Frank Bruni a year ago. Moreover, this is the first four-star review the NYT to an Italian restaurant since 1974. Thus, the review is something of an event in restaurant journalism.

In parallel, Sifton has a blog post that provides background on the review, with an accompanying slide show from which the photo above is taken. Regarding the pictured dish, Sifton writes:

Mr. Ladner’s pastas are insanely good. After a wintry appetizer of warm, soft cotechino in a lentil vinaigrette, his spaghetti with Dungeness crab, sliced jalapeño and minced scallion arrives like the sun. It is a dish that speaks directly to Mr. Ladner’s genius, to a view of Italian cooking that allows for both jalapeño and Dungeness crab. His cooking is not about recreating Italy on a luxe scale so much as it is about recreating the Italian spirit on the grandest scale imaginable.

But read the full review. And see all the photos.

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